Dracaena Marginata

(Dracaena Marginata)
Dracaena Marginata

Light

Marginata enjoys areas where it will be exposed to bright light; however avoid direct sunlight as it might burn the plant.

Placement

Diningroom, Bedroom

Water Habits

Marginata will grow best when watered thoroughly and then allowed to dry completely. Water the soil until it becomes very dark. Allow the soil to dry before the next watering. Potting the plant to allow for proper drainage will help guard against over watering.

Temperature

Ideal Temperature for Marginata: 60-80°F (15-27°C) Min: 40°F (4°C)

Toxins Removed

Formaldehyde, Trichloroethylene, Xylene, Toluene

Did You Know ?

The Dracaena Marginata goes by the name Madagascar Dragon tree suggesting that it originates from the Island Nation of Madagascar. As this plant grows over the years the lower leaves will fall giving the trunk a long and slender look.

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Fungus Gnats:

The adult fungus gnats are gray or dark-gray, fly-like insects about 1/8 inch long. They are attracted to light and when present in your house, swarm over the windows because of the natural light. The immature form of the Fungus Gnat, which lives in the soil, are thin whitish maggots with a jet black head, and attain a length of about 1/4 inch. The maggots are likely to be found in soils with quantities of decaying plant. The damage caused by these pest’s are usually occur while they are in their maggot form as they will bury themselves in the soil and feed on the roots of the plant. The gnats themselves are more of a pest then an issue to the plant.

Best way to keep your plant free of fungus gnat maggots is to avoid overwatering your plant. In the event that your plant is already infested with this pest, use an insecticide drench and apply it to the potting to control the problem. For the adults use of a labeled and targeted insecticide should assist in destroying them. If you want to avoid the use of chemicals to kill the larvae, by allowing the soil to dry out completely between watering they should die out.

Scales:

There are many species of scales that are commonly found in indoor house or greenhouse plants. Some species of the insect can have an armored shell like covering that will protect its entire form while others will have none at all. Those with the waxy shell can have its protection removed by simply scraping it away. It is easiest to tell the difference as the soft scales (no armored protection) produce honeydew while the armored scales will not. Scales feed on your plant by sucking on the plant’s sap. This will promote poor growth which will eventually stunt the growth of your plant. It can also lead to your plant being infested to sooty mold.

The most practical thing to do for your first attempt at cleaning up your plant from its infestation is to use soap and water to wash off the leaves and stems. If your plant is heavily infested, you can try an insecticide spray schedule on your plant that involves 2 to 3 sprays a week every two weeks. It is usually best to discard the plant however before the infestation can spread.

Thrips:

There are many sub species of Thrips that can infest common indoor house hold plants. The insect is barely visible to the naked eye. In its adult form the pest is a brownish, black color with light markings on its body. The larvae can be a light yellow to orange color with black excrement on their backs. When a plant that this pest inhabits is disturbed the adult forms it can be seen to fly or run. This insect will feed on the juices of the plants leaves and/flowers. The damage that is left behind is random streaked silvered areas of the plant that are speckled with little black dots of excrement. The plants leaves and/or flowers may be blotched or drop away from the plant.

Labeled insecticides that state they can handle thrips are the best option for removal. Try a daily spray of 4 times a day for 4 days on both the plant and the soil to get rid of this pest.

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Potassium Deficiency:

Symptoms of Potassium deficiency vary among plant species, but always appear first on the oldest leaves. Older leaflets of some palms are mottled with yellowish spots that are translucent when viewed from below, followed by the leaves rolling and giving a burnt look (necrosis) from the tip inward. In other plant varieties symptoms of Potassium deficiency are older leaves that appear withered and frizzled with yellow tips and brown margins. Yet in other cases symptoms appear on older leaves as marginal or tip necrosis with little or no yellowish spotting present. When left unaddressed it will progress from the older leaves to the younger leaves, eventually killing the plant. Potassium is responsible for chlorophyll formation which plays an important part in the strength of cells, in turn enhancing the ability of the plant to resist plant diseases, insect attacks and cold conditions. The best way to take care of Potassium deficiency is to use a fertilizer that contains Potassium Sulfate. A note of caution though; an excess of Potassium may tend to delay maturity.

Nitrogen Deficiency:

When you start seeing some discoloration and yellowing of the leaves on your Marginata it is usually caused from a Nitrogen Deficiency. Along with the yellowing of the leaf, on the Marginata another good indication that your plant is suffering would be if you notice that the new growth is coming in skinnier than usual. A good solution would be to spray the leaves of the plants with a foliar fertilizer [fertilizers made especially for applying nutrients to the leaves] with a mix of about 5-10-5 (percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium).

Manganese Deficiency:

If you notice that the new growth on your Marginata is a pale green with transverse veins, then it is most likely a manganese issue. The best way to treat this deficiency is to take manganese chelate and spray it on the leaves. After doing so take a spray bottle and gently mist the plant a couple of times a week.

Magnesium Deficiency:

Magnesium deficiency can first be detected by observing the leaves of the plant as with most other deficiencies. If you notice orange/brown veins on the leaves that would be one of the first indications. This is further identified with withering or curling of the leaves which will eventually lead to the burnt look around the tips of the leaf. The best/organic way to treat this deficiency is to take Epsom salt and mix it in with about 2 gallons of water. After doing so take a spray bottle and gently mist the plant a couple of times a week.

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